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The rain and thunder of the previous night was forgotten as the sun appeared in a clear blue sky on our 6th cruise day. We were disappointed at not being able to stay one more day in this charming town and marina. But we needed to be in Ellös, Sweden by Wednesday evening and it was now Sunday.
We arrived at the Kiel-Holtenau side of the canal at around 11.00 and after a short 30-minute stay at the waiting pontoon, we received the signal to proceed into the lock. This is the side on which you pay the transit fee (41 Euros for our 16 meter boat). The kiosk where you pay is a tiny market – it sells milk, bottled drinks, snacks and newspapers.
Finally in the Baltic Sea after exiting the Kiel Canal at Holtenau.
After exiting the lock at Holtenau, just north of Kiel, we were finally in the Baltic sea! We were now in the Kiel Fjord, famous for the Kieler Woche regattas, the largest annual sailing event in the world.
The first thing we needed to do after exiting the canal was to find the marina with the fuel station Axel told us about while we had dinner in Rendsburg. He said it was the least expensive one in the area. That’s important when you’re filling 800 litres of diesel! It’s the “Hafen Strande” in the town of Strande.
View towards Laboe on the eastern side of the Kiel Fjord.
Another view of Laboe, on the other side of the Kiel Fjord.
It was about 13.00 by the time we left the fuel station at Strande and turned northeast toward our route through Denmark. The plan was to sail towards Stora Baeltet (the Great Belt) between the islands of Fyn on the west and Sjaelland on the east. The wind was increasing from the east and we planned to find either an anchorage or a marina on the way with sufficient shelter.
A view of the Danish island of Langeland. Wind generators are everywhere in Denmark.
Using the book Cruising Guide to Germany and Denmark and the handy marina guides that came with our paper charts (NV Charts, Germany), we began be checking out anchorage possibilities. The islands close to our route however, were either too low to provide shelter from the wind (which was now gusting to 30 knots) or had shallow water — too shallow for our draft of 1.8 meters. We continued up through the fairway towards the bridge over the Great Belt (Storebaeltsbroen), the 18-km long bridge between Fyn and Sjaelland, thinking that we’d surely find a suitable marina or an anchorage on the way.
By 19.00, we still hadn’t found a harbour, so we decided to just keep going through the night until we arrived at the island of Anholt the next day. Anholt is a great jumping off point to sail east to the Swedish coast.
At 22.00 we started our 4-hour shifts — first Mark and Liz, then Jacques and I. The night passed rather uneventfully with the exception of the passage under the bridge, which was lit like a Christmas tree. It was truly a fantastic site from the water. By 6.00, the wind had increased slightly – we were now getting gusts of 35 knots from the east, but we had been protected from any heavy swell by the peninsula of Sjaellands Odde just east of us. By the time Mark and Liz were up for the morning watches we were getting waves of 3-4 meters.
Day 7: Stora Baeltet to Bønnerup, Denmark
Jacques and I were now off-watch and decided to try to get a couple of hours of sleep. After about an hour, I was awakened by the feeling we were changing direction. We had been on a northerly course and with winds from the east, I had been sleeping up against the lee cloth, when suddenly I rolled fully onto the mattress. We had tacked and seemed to now be on a broad reach towards the west.
Mark and Liz had decided that it would be a prudent idea to take shelter at Grenå as the winds were now gusting to 40 knots but forecast to drop off that afternoon. After a quick check in the harbour guide, we decided to go for the marina in Grenå. The ferry/fishing port was our back-up choice if the marina entrance was too difficult to enter (the wind and waves were going right into the marina entrance). A few hours rest in the harbour would give us a chance to have a good meal and a rest before continuing that afternoon.
We attempted to get into the marina but saw from a distance of around 500 meters that it would have been too dangerous. The 3-meter high waves were crashing violently against the outer marina wall. We entered easily as the entrance faces north instead of east. The possibilities for tying up were limited as we hadn’t yet prepared a fender board and the harbour walls are definitely not made for pleasure boats with gelcoat hulls. We finally agreed that the best idea was to snuggle up against a huge dredging vessel. It was so tall, its bulk had created a spot out of the wind and we were able to raft up relatively easily.
We then kept one-hour watches as we were afraid of chafe on the mooring lines. We had almost a lot of swell in the harbour and the banged-up, rusty steel dredger was not exactly mooring line-friendly. I was happy we had bought two enormous round fenders – they were exactly what we needed here!
After a few hours rest and a hot meal, we set out for the Bønnerup marina/fishing harbour on the north side of the peninsula. Its entrance faces north, so Bønnerup, a two-hour sail from Grenå, would provide us with decent shelter throughout the night. The entrance to Bønnerup marina is flanked by seven enormous wind generators. They certainly were providing a return on investment with the wind we were getting!
Bønnerup Fishing Harbour (Denmark)
We phoned the harbour master as we approached. There were no more berths in the marina! Everyone was waiting for the wind to decrease, and even the fishing boats were not going out. We were directed to the fishing boat side of the harbour. Once again, we were happy to have those huge balloon fenders to protect our gelcoat from the rusty steel pontoon where the boat delivered their catch!
Freja tied up to the fishing boat quay in Bønnerup.
One good thing about being on the fish-delivery quay, we were completely sheltered from the wind behind the fish hall – where the fish is deposited, smoked, packed and sold. We had dinner in the cockpit whereas the boat owners in the marina, in the direct path of the wind, stayed below.
Freja in front of the fish hall in Bønnerup Harbour.
Day 8: Bønnerup, Denmark to Kullavik, Sweden
By the next morning, the wind was beginning to decrease in strength and down to around 25 knots from the southeast. We got an early start – we wanted to arrive to Kullavik, Sweden by late afternoon.
Wet and windy morning in Denmark.
Why Kullavik? Because Mark had been in contact with a swedish journalist who wanted to test sail the boat. The journalist, Joakim, offered us a berth in his home marina, Kullavik, south of Gothenburg.
The weather was windy but fabulously sunny as a strong high pressure system had moved in over Sweden. We were all impressed by the beauty of the skerries around Vrångö as we approached the coast. The sailing was getting more and more comfortable as the swell decreased. I was so happy to be back in Sweden!
Sailing towards the west coast of Sweden
Passing the skerries south of Vrångö, Sweden.
We arrived at the charming marina of Kullavik just after 16.00. Joakim met us at the marina entrance and directed us to a mooring which was generously offered to us for free. And then Joakim lent us his car so that we could visit the local supermarket! Generosity abounds here!
Approaching Kullavik. The red building is the boat club sauna.
I stocked up on some of my favourite Swedish food and drink: Ramlösa Citrus mineral water, Skagenröra (a prawn dish) Västerbotton cheese and Kalix löjrom (Bleak roe or caviar from the Bothnian Bay in the Baltic). Yum!
After giving Freja a nice fresh-water rinse – she hadn’t been cleaned off since she left Southampton – we prepared for dinner. We had invited Joakim to celebrate our arrival in Sweden and opened a bottle of chardonnay to drink with the appetisers, and a bottle of Merlot to drink with dinner – both from our vineyard. Skål!
The winds were still coming out of the southwest as we left the Marina Seaport IJmuiden — perfect for us as we were still on a north-northeast course. We would not change course significantly until we rounded the Fresian island of Terschelling.
Friesian Islands
Barely out of the marina, we got our very first VHF call in Freja’s history — from the Netherlands Coast Guard. Someone on one of the dunes onshore thought we were sending S.O.S. signals and they wanted to ask us if everything was OK. Had we had been signalling with a bright light? No, we had not, thank you very much! It was quite reassuring to get a call and realise that your LRC certificate training had not been forgotten.
An hour later, we had our second VHF call. This time, they asked us very politely, how many people were onboard, who was onboard (two Swiss and two British nationals) what our last port of call was (IJmuiden) what our next port of call was (Cuxhaven) and then wished us good sailing. We think it had been a training exercise for new coast guard recruits as we heard them calling another yacht not far from us afterwards.
We were now each on one-hour watches until 22.00 (sunset is about 22.30 at this time of the year where we were) when Liz and Mark would take the first 4-hour watch, and then Jacques and I would take the second at 2.00. The thinking behind the watch assignment was that Mark and Liz seemed to be night owls and Jacques likes to be in bed early and wake up early. Well, two o’clock is a bit early, mais voilà, that was our logic.
Cruising with both headsails poled out, main in.
Since we had the wind behind us, Mark thought it was a good idea to roll in the main and sail with the two headsails poled out until we got to Terschelling and changed to a more westerly course. It worked brilliantly once both poles were out. Our speed was about one knot faster and we didn’t have to worry about setting up the preventer. Here is a video of us sailing with poled out headsails.
Late in the afternoon, we reached Terschelling. We rolled in the genoa and rolled out the main as we were now on a broad reach. A few hours later, the sunset into the north sea was magnificent. We had now passed the island of Schiermonnikoog, Mark and Liz started their watch, and we went to sleep.
Both Liz and I were taking photos of the magnificent sunset.
It’s difficult to believe this is the North Sea
We woke up from a not-so-deep sleep to the incredible spectacle of an electrical storm over our heads. Fortunately, the lightning was far enough inland to not be a danger to us. We never heard any thunder. The amount of electricity being generated was just amazing as lightning illuminated the entire sky about every 20 seconds or so. We saw all of the little fishing boats and a yacht in the distance that we had been monitoring with AIS and radar. It was as though night and day were switching back and forth every 20 seconds.
We were now just north of the island of Langeoog in the German friesian islands. Apart from the various fishing vessels we saw on the plotter, we had one yacht that kept us company as it steered a parallel course to ours. The TSS was about 3 nautical miles north of us so we had an easy crossing to the bight of Bremerhaven at a speed over ground of 10 knots. Since Bremerhaven is a large port, we had to be careful of the shipping channels and the enormous anchoring areas for the cargo ships.
The wind had also veered to an easterly direction and died down to just a couple of knots, forcing us to use the motor to properly cross the TSS. We had three channels to cross using three different courses as they must be crossed at right angles.
After crossing the channels, the sea started to become visible. It was about 5.00 in the morning and we noticed that the first thing you notice when the day dawns is that you begin to actually see the surface of the water, even though the sky is totally black (we had no moon due to the clouds). It’s amazing how well the water reflects just a minuscule amount of light.
Just as the sun was appearing over the horizon through the clouds we came across an enormous anchoring area and had to slalom between the huge container ships.
Huge anchorage for cargo ships near the mouth of the Elbe river in Germany
We finally reached the mouth of the Elbe at around 7.30 and woke Liz and Mark for breakfast. We still had about 30 NM to go before arriving at Brunsbüttel at the entrance to the Kiel Canal.
Freja approaching the mouth of the Elbe River in Germany.
Day 5: Elbe River to Rendsburg in the Kiel Canal
The mouth of the Elbe is so wide that you don’t see from one end to the other, at least not at high tide. We arrived at high tide, which was unfortunate because that meant we were fighting both the natural river current as well as the tidal current emptying out of the river, which was about 5 knots. With the motor at 2,300 RPM we managed a decent 5 knots.
We motored past Cuxhaven marina, where we had planned to spend the night, but as we had arrived about 7 hours earlier than planned, we pushed on to Brunsbüttel to begin the journey up the Kiel canal. We’ll save Cuxhaven and Hamburg för another cruise. After about a 30-minute wait, the lights for permission to enter flashed and the lock doors were opened. We entered after a couple of local boats, thinking “we’ll just do what they do”, as none of us had ever done the Kiel Canal before!
Mooring Freja to the lock pontoon in the Kiel canal at Brunsbüttel
Freja in the locks at Brunsbüttel
One thing we were not prepared for was how ridiculously low the lock pontoon is. They’re less than 10 cm (4 inches) high! We had hung our fenders at a “normal” pontoon height and had to quickly lower them to “floating in the water” height. The next time, we plan to have a couple of fender boards because we noticed that fenders are seriously not effective if they’re floating in the water! They pop out of the water because of the slippery algae that grows on the pontoons. Fender boards will be one of our winter projects.
Freja tied up in the Brunsbüttel locks
The lock gates opening for passage into the canal
The water level didn’t really change much while we in the lock, so the locking process after the gates were closed was rather uneventful. The forward gate opened and we immediately saw a large cruise ship heading our way. Thankfully we had needed to pass that one going in the opposite direction!
The Kiel canal at Brunsbüttel
We found the canal landscape to be rather charming. We passed village after village, ferry landing after ferry landing. The amusing thing about the ferry landings is that they all have a pub and an ice cream shop. Mark, typical Englishman that he is, was groaning about not being able to stop for a pint at the pubs.
Making our way up the Kiel Canal
One of the many charming houses along the Kiel canal
One of the many cargo ships transitting the canal. The speed limit in the canal is 8 knots.
We arrived at the harbour of Rendsburg, just after the halfway point of the canal. Rendsburg has three different marinas and we chose the marina at the very heart of town. After being helped to a nice hammerhead mooring, I went to pay the marina fee — only 20 Euros for our 55-foot boat (prices start at 10 Euros for a boat 8 meters and below).
A Google Earth photo of Rendsburg. The three marinas are clearly visible.
It had been a hot, humid and hazy day, so we weren’t surprised to see the build-up of cumulonimbus clouds on the horizon as the evening arrived. By 19.00, a thunderstorm bringing heavy rain arrived, so we were no longer very keen on plans to take a long walk around the town.
It was just as well — the marina has a lovely restaurant and covered terrace. We managed to get the last table – for six – as we’d met lovely couple from Hamburg, Germany, Heidi and Axel, on their way home from sailing in Denmark. We all shared a hearty meal, laughs and great conversion and received an invitation to visit them in Hamburg. The “cruising community” isn’t just a Caribbean thing!
Our original plan was to start cruising in April of 2016, leisurely making our way across northern Europe to finally end up in Sweden. That would have given us plenty of time to invite various friends and family onboard to share our first-ever cruising season on Freja.
That plan came to an abrupt end when Alistair, the former marketing manager at Discovery, asked us if were interested in showing the boat at the Orust “Öppna Varv” boat show in August, 2015.
The first thing we did was to immediately contact Adams Boatcare in Sweden to ask if there was indeed a place for us this winter (2015-2016) in one of their heated sheds. We got a “yes” only because they had just signed a contract to take over a new boatyard that’s about three time larger. Yay!
Only then did we agree that Freja could be the “model” for the show. The only thing thing we asked of Discovery in return was that they provide two people to help us get the boat to Sweden, as it was a bit late for rounding up two sailing friends who had time to sign on as crew. In addition, we were complete newbies regarding the boat and it’s about 1’000 nautical miles from Southampton to Orust. And we had only about a week to get there.
We christened Freja on August 10th together with John and Caroline Charley, the owners of the Discovery Yard, two other Discovery owners from Switzerland, as well as the entire owner care team. We then set off from Southampton’s Ocean Village Marina on the 11th. Our mission was to arrive in Ellös, Sweden on the 19th. That gave us one week plus two days’ margin for bad weather or for anything going wrong on the boat. That’s not much margin.
Christening Freja at Ocean Village Marina in Southampton. We are celebrating with John and Caroline Charley, owners of Discovery Yachts, as well as Mark Williams, Sales Manager, and John Eustace, Owner Care Manager.
Christening Freja at Ocean Village Marina in Southampton. John Charley, owner of Discovery Yachts, on the right.
Drinking Champagne at Freja’s christening
Admiring one of our christening gifts from Discovery.
Tuesday the 11th of August dawned grey and still. We had exactly 0 knots of wind.
We rose early to get the boat ready and to make an enormous pot of beef stew that we would be able to eat under way whenever we got hungry.
The Wonderbag eco-cooker — keeps your food simmering.
I’d bought one of those Wonderbag cookers. It acts as a slow cooker. It’s essentially a huge, heavily-insulated bag for your pot. Use a pot with two short handles on either side – it won’t fit otherwise. You bring whatever you’re cooking to a simmer and the then turn off the heat. Put your pot into the Wonderbag and the meal continues to simmer for the next four hours or so.
It kept our stew piping hot for six hours. It’s going to save us so much propane/butane in the future, as we love to eat comfort food like hearty soups, stews and chile con carne while under way — at least during the cooler months of the year.
We bought a set of Sistema “Soup-to-Go” mugs to make it easier to eat in the cockpit while under way. They’re as large as a soup bowl, and have a handle so you can keep a good grip on the them.
Freja in the Solent with Liz at the helm.
As we made our way down the perfectly flat calm of Southampton Water and the eastern Solent, the realisation that we really had our own sailboat started to sink in. We were finally on our first cruise. After more than a year in build, Freja was now a reality. Four years of planning and preparation had brought us here!
Our crew for the trip was Mark, the sales manager at Discovery, and Liz, a design engineer. Liz was especially keen to come along because despite having designed plenty of things on various Discovery yachts, she had never actually cruised on one. Both Mark and Liz are excellent sailors and we were delighted to have them onboard.
Bye-bye Portsmouth. We won’t be seeing you for awhile!
As we passed Portsmouth and exited the Solent, we decided to use our autopilot as we were now on a straight course for our next waypoint. Hand steering under motor in 0 knots of wind is not exactly interesting.
The autopilot was not very cooperative — it wanted to send the boat back to Southampton and put us into a 180° turn! We tried to get it to work several more times with the same result. We then switched to autopilot two. Same problem.
We got on the phone to Furuno UK to troubleshoot, and Dan at Furuno determined that there must be a wiring problem. Mark got on the phone with Greenham Regis Marine Electronics (thank you Iridium phone service) and they decided the best thing to do was to send a technician out to the boat to sort things out (the installation of the system had been outsourced to them).
We had already started to eat up those two days’ margin!
Good-bye Isle of Wight. Jacques relaxing on one of the stern benches (sometimes referred to as “gin & tonic seats”).
In the meantime, Liz, being the brilliant engineer that she is, came to the conclusion that the wiring of the autopilots had been criss-crossed. The autopilot one controller had been wired to the autopilot two motor and vice-versa. (The subject of why we order two independent autopilots: the subject of a future post.)
So instead of continuing up the English Channel, we steered into Brighton marina (our goal had been to continue until we reached Ijmuiden in Holland). Malcolm from Greenham Regis promised that he’d drive out to us early the next morning and re-wire the autopilot system.
Day 2 and 3: New start from Brighton all the way to Ijmuiden, the Netherlands
Malcolm arrive bright and early at 8.00 to sort out our autopilot problem. We greeted him with a cup of tea, standard operating procedure in Great Britain! If we had been home in Switzerland, we would had offered him an espresso.
Anyway, Malcolm spent the next hour re-wiring the autopilot systems. We then motored out of the marina with him to test and calibrate both autopilots in “real conditions” for about 45 minutes. Yay! Both autopilots worked flawlessly. We could now continue our journey.
Beachy Head on the south coast of England
The calm we had on Tuesday was replaced by strong winds coming out of the northeast, gusting up to 25 knots. Since northeast was our course to Dover, Mr. Yanmar was going to have to work again today. The Chile con Carne I had prepared during breakfast had been stewing in the Wonderbag all morning. We literally devoured it for lunch in the cockpit as the winds picked up even more. Ha! Little did I know that lunch would be my last meal until lunch the next day!
We were riding the tidal current up the channel, but the wind was coming down, so we had perfect wind against tide conditions — not exactly appetite-stimulating!
As we came past Dover at around 21.00,we could see on AIS that both ferries had just arrived, one after the other, and were probably still discharging or loading cars and cargo as we passed. As we changed course for France, we furled out the working jib and the mainsail leaving two reefs. We could get in about an hour of sailing as we crossed over to Calais.
The sun had just gone down and knowing that I’d certainly get seasick with the rough sea state with no horizon to look at, I popped a Trawell gum into my mouth as we changed course for Calais. It’s just Dramamine in chewing gum form, available over the counter, but it works like a charm for me.
We had planned to do shifts of 4 hours each pair — 22.00-02.00 for Mark and Liz, and 02.00-06.00 for Jacques and I, but the gods of seasickness threw that plan overboard. Jacques was the first to succumb and retired to his berth. Liz was number two. That left Marc and I to do the entire night. Our supply of Red Bull Sugerfree kept us from falling asleep. One can, and you’re good for the night!
I thanked the universe for the invention of Tra-well and Red bull. I felt just fine during the night, through the wind, waves.
I was a bit nervous as we were navigating at night in one of the busiest shipping channels in the world. Thankfully, we had lots of wind, so we had good visibility.
We had to stay alert to stay out of the many TSS (traffic separation schemes) and always cross them at right angles. The TSS at the entrances to both Antwerp and Rotterdam look a bit confusing on the charts as they almost look like huge round-abouts. The cargo and passenger ships are brilliantly well-lit at night and between the AIS and the radar overlay on the Furuno chart plotter, we managed to “see” all of the fishing and pleasure boats as well. It was really wasn’t that bad. At all.
If you haven’t sailed on the Belgium and Dutch coasts, this is what the TSSes look like. Fortunately, it looks much worse than it is, but be prepared!
The worst part of the night was the continuous salt-water bath the cockpit was getting. Even though we had both the sprayhood and the bimini up, the sea was rough enough to send spray into the cockpit from the sides. Everything in the cockpit was sticky and crusted with salt. Just try to put on some gloves after your hands have been exposed to salt water. It’s as if you’ve dipped your hands in glue.
We crossed from France into Belgium during the night and then into the Netherlands by 8.00 the next day. By then, both Liz and Jacques were up, having gotten over their seasickness, so now Mark and I could get some badly-needed sleep.
Cruising along the northern coast of the Netherlands is not the most exciting voyage. You need to keep a respectful distance away from the shore, so you don’t see much of anything but brown water.
The coast is strewn with sandbanks that constantly shift and we noticed that the depth under the keel never went over 16 meters. You really need to keep an eye on the depth sounder and the chart plotter. The pilot guide for Netherlands helped us stay outside the shallowest areas as well.
Off Zandvoort in the Netherlands.
We finally reached IJmuiden Seaport Marina at around 17.00. The weather was windy, sunny, hot and humid! We were given an alongside berth from the marina office (VHF channel 74) along the far wall. After we were securely tied up I walked to the marina office to pay our fees. It’s a huge marina and it took almost 15 minutes to walk to the office! Keep in mind that unless you have a boat over 14 meters, you can try to find a berth that’s far closer the the marina facilities. Avoid the harbour wall on the port side of the entrance if you can!
The Marina Seaport IJmuiden
It was a balmy 32°C (90°F), and we were sheltered from the wind next to the high harbour wall. Time to turn on the air conditioner! Who would have thought we’d need the air conditioner in the Netherlands!
After a late dinner and a glass of wine we retired to our bunks just as the wind suddenly picked up from another direction – the southwest. Jacques, Mark and I went back up on deck to check our dock lines and fenders. Everything was fine. But two minutes later, while I was brushing my teeth, the sounds of loud cursing in French put me on high alert.
It was a Sun Odyssey 42 with 6 or 7 men, all shouting epithets at the top of their lungs. I’ll spare you the translation. If they were going to try to raft up to us in these winds, it would not be pretty. After several attempts in various berths around the marina, they finally tied up at another pier and we were all able to get some sleep.
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